How Do I Remove a Stripped Screw?

A stripped screw head — the cross or slot worn smooth so your driver just spins — stops a project cold. Do not keep grinding at it with the same bit; that only makes it worse. Work through these methods from gentlest to most aggressive. One of them will get it out.

Why screws strip (and how to stop before it gets worse)

A driver bit grips a screw head through precise contact — the bit’s shape matches the recess exactly. Stripping destroys that match:

• Cam-out: the bit slips out of the recess under torque, grinding the edges round. Phillips heads are designed to cam out at high torque (to prevent overdriving); the trade-off is they strip easily.
• Wrong bit: a #1 bit in a #2 recess contacts only the tips — it spins and reams the head smooth.
• Worn bit: old bits have rounded edges that no longer match the recess. They feel like they fit but slip under load.
• Soft screws: cheap zinc screws strip far easier than hardened steel. The $2 box of screws costs more in stripped heads than quality screws do.

The critical rule: the moment the bit slips twice, STOP. Every additional slip removes more metal and closes off the easier removal methods. Switch to a fresh bit, add downward pressure, or move to the next method below.

Quick diagnosis: how stripped is it?

• Bit slips but still catches a little → rubber band or steel wool trick. See Method 1.
• Head completely smooth, screw is small → screw extractor. See Method 2.
• Head completely smooth, screw is large or stuck hard → cut a new slot. See Method 3.
• Head broken off entirely → pliers on the shank, or drill it out. See Method 4.

What you will need

• Wide rubber band (or steel wool)
• Correct-size driver bits (fresh, not worn)
• Screw extractor set ($8–$15)
• Rotary tool (Dremel) with cutting disc, or a hacksaw
• Locking pliers (Vise-Grips)
• Drill and left-hand drill bits (optional but excellent)
• Penetrating oil (for rusted screws)

Method 1: The rubber band trick (try first)

1. Switch to the correct bit. A stripped head is often just a worn bit. Try a fresh bit of the exact right size first — fully seated, straight, with firm downward pressure.
2. If it still slips, lay a wide rubber band flat over the screw head and press the bit through it into the head. The rubber fills the worn gaps and adds grip.
3. Push hard and turn slowly. Downward pressure is everything — the bit must stay seated.
4. Alternative: a small wad of steel wool works the same way and grips even better on badly worn heads.

Method 2: Screw extractor

Extractors are reverse-threaded bits that bite into the screw as you turn counterclockwise.

1. Drill a pilot hole in the center of the screw head with the bit size specified on the extractor package. Go slow — you are drilling into hardened steel.
2. Tap the extractor in with a hammer so it seats firmly.
3. Turn counterclockwise slowly with a tap wrench or adjustable wrench. The reverse threads dig in and back the screw out.
4. Apply penetrating oil first and wait 10 minutes if the screw is rusted or corroded.

Extractor sets cost under $15 and belong in every toolbox — this is the method that works when the rubber band fails.

Method 3: Cut a new slot

For larger screws where you can get a cutting tool to the head:

1. With a rotary tool and cutting disc (or a hacksaw for big heads), cut a straight slot across the screw head, deep enough for a flat-head screwdriver.
2. Use a manual flat-head screwdriver (not a power driver — too easy to cam out again) with strong downward pressure.
3. Turn slowly. The fresh slot gives full engagement.

Wear safety glasses — cutting discs throw sparks and fragments.

Method 4: Grab it or drill it out

• Pliers: if the head protrudes at all, clamp locking pliers onto it and turn. For a broken-off screw with exposed shank, this is the go-to.
• Left-hand drill bits: drilling with a left-hand bit often catches and backs the screw out on its own — the drilling action works in the removal direction. Start small and work up.
• Drill it out completely: as a last resort, drill the screw out with progressively larger bits until only the threads remain, then pick them out or re-tap the hole. You will need to repair the hole afterward (see our stripped-hole guide).

What this costs

Mistakes to avoid

• Keeping at it with a slipping bit. Every slip makes the head worse. Stop, switch methods.
• Using the wrong size bit. A #1 bit in a #2 screw is the most common cause of stripping in the first place.
• No downward pressure. Especially with power drivers — push hard, turn slow.
• Drilling the pilot hole off-center. The extractor will snap. Center-punch the head first.
• Snapping the extractor. Extractors are hardened and brittle — if it breaks off in the screw, you now have a much harder problem. Go slow, use oil, do not force it.

Preventing stripped screws

• Match the bit exactly to the screw (Phillips #2 is not universal — check).
• Pre-drill pilot holes in hardwood.
• Drive straight, not at an angle.
• Replace worn bits — a fresh $2 bit saves a $15 extractor job.
• Use impact-rated bits in impact drivers; standard bits cam out and shatter.
• A drop of wax or soap on threads reduces the torque needed.

Frequently asked questions

Which screw extractor size do I need? Match the extractor to the screw: the package lists a pilot-hole drill size for each extractor. When in doubt, start with the smaller extractor — you can always go bigger.

Can I remove a stripped screw from a phone or laptop? Yes, but gently — use precision extractors made for small electronics, and never use heat or cutting discs near a battery.

The screw is rusted solid — what helps? Penetrating oil (not WD-40 — use a real penetrating oil), patience (wait 15+ minutes, reapply), and heat from a soldering iron on the screw head to break the rust bond.

What if the extractor breaks inside the screw? A broken extractor is extremely hard to drill (it is harder than drill bits). At that point, options are: drill around it and plug the hole, or relocate the fastener. Prevention — slow speed, oil, no forcing — matters more than cure here.

Can I use an impact driver to remove a stripped screw? Carefully, yes — an impact driver with a fresh, correct bit and strong downward pressure can shock a mildly stripped screw loose. But on a badly stripped head, the impacts just ream it smoother. Try it once with a new bit; if it slips, stop and switch to the extractor.

What about stripped hex (Allen) screws? Same principles: try a slightly larger metric/SAE hex key tapped in with a hammer, or a Torx bit hammered into the rounded hex recess — the star shape bites where the hex slipped. Then extract normally.

Method selection: quick reference

When to call a pro

• The stripped screw is in a structural connection and you cannot remove it without damage — a contractor can assess alternatives.
• It is a stripped bolt on a vehicle or appliance under warranty — let the dealer/manufacturer handle it to avoid voiding coverage.
• You have broken an extractor off inside — a machine shop with EDM or carbide tooling can remove it, but it is rarely worth it for household items; relocating the fastener is usually the practical answer.